Dressing the Wild Woman
by Meg Elliot @megan_daisy_
We had a funny summer here in the UK. The English hunger for weather-related moaning was well and truly satisfied during months that saw grey skies bursting with occasional, blistering days of sunshine. Despite considering autumn The Best Season of the Year, I had resisted the knowledge of its incoming - surely we deserved more sun than we had had this 2021?! Nevertheless, my desperate delusions of a longer summer were blown away by Autumnal charm: the stingingly fresh early morning mists that beckon in warm days; cosy jumpers worn with scarves, but no coats (yet); the darkening of the evenings and the smell of woodsmoke from the season’s first fires.
The transition from summer to autumn is one of the most pronounced seasonal changes of the year, and has held folkloric significance for generations. In the female archetypes, autumn, and the waning moon, is represented by the Wild Woman. Lesser known than her predecessors, the Maiden (spring) and the Mother (summer), the Wild Woman breaks free of their socially accepted tropes and becomes the archetype feared as a free and independent spirit. ‘She understands the magical qualities of the world, the irrational, the genius, passions and the dark side of herself and those around her, and transmutes it all into healing. She is the wit ch, the shaman’.
And so, the freshness in the air holds both the Wild Woman and the falling leaves. It is the season of magic and emancipation. In Women Who Run with the Wolves, Clarissa Pinkola Estés writes: ‘over time, we have seen the feminine instinctive nature looted, driven back, overbuilt.’ In order to reclaim this nature, we need to undertake, ‘‘psychic-archeological’ digs into the ruins of the female underworld’. Part of this excavation exposes the gendered witch. Contrary to accepted stereotypes of the broom-wielding crone, complete with wart-covered face and husky growl, the witch is rather a collection of attributes that transcends gender definition: a recognition of the rhythms of the natural world, and an attendance to it, the practise of radical empathy, and kindness. When chosen for Emma Watson’s book club, ‘Our Shared Shelf’, her readers questioned what space Women Who Run with the Wolves held for trans and non-binary people. Estes replied that, ‘there is not, as far as I know, and I have over my lifetime consulted with myriad crones, hobbits, faeries, gnomes and leprechauns, any final saying about what is a woman.’ We are rather each ‘made from divine and mundane ingredients available to us all.’
The image of the witch continues to be re-shaped in contemporary culture, with designers producing witch-y outfits to varying degrees of success, landing on the catwalks in those transitional seasons of spring and autumn. In spring 2013, Ulyana Sergeenko reworked the classic cape-hat combo with ergonomic design, complete with platform ballet pumps. In the autumn of 2006, Jean Paul Gautier rather grotesquely had his witches bring cats on the runway, writhing against crumpled velvet. Perhaps most successfully, Martine Sitbon clad Kate Moss in a grey veil atop a navy suit in the spring of 1993, with wispy mesh emanating from a cauldron shaped hat. Here she walks classically aloof, her outfit acknowledging the visual motifs so tethered to the Witch-Woman, but re-appropriating it with every stride: straight from board meeting to ritual.
From left: Ulyana Sergeenko, Jean Paul Gautier, Martine Sitbon
Margot Adler describes the witch as “a cluster of powerful images”. The act of dressing could therefore be one way to harness the incalculable essence of the witch, as a form of spiritual practice in the ritual of selection and creation. And if that image is heightened in the transitory seasons of spring and autumn, when the landscape is visibly shifting, then now is an interesting moment to re-engage with our inner wild woman/witch, and see how she manifests visually. So, I asked a couple of my most witchy of friends (and couldn’t resist having a go myself) to channel their inner wild woman this autumn, how they would define what a witch is, and why they chose the outfits they did.
FREYA
What does “witch” mean to you?
To me a witch is a person who is not bound by convention, whose beliefs and values are inspired by mystic and cosmic influences.
How does autumn make you feel?
Autumn makes me very reflective, it’s a time for slowing down and returning inside. All of the growing and exploring done over the warmer months now becomes nourishment for the colder days. When the leaves start to change colour and the cycle of decay is setting in there is opportunity to pause, cleanse and be.
Why this outfit?
I feel like I have thrifting powers — maybe I’m a second hand bargain witch? Maybe I’m just manifesting ha. But when I was set the brief of sexy Halloween for an event I was going to, I pictured myself wearing a sheer or lace-y dress. Days later this perfect £2.50 bargain was waiting for me at a charity shop. I paired it with pieces I already had, in my bid to reject the commercialisation and plastic packaged costumes this holiday is plagued with. The boots were a very naughty 26th birthday present to myself — my new pride & joy. The whole ensemble really did make me feel sexy - mission, success!
HERMIONE
What does “witch” mean to you?
Witches are a stereotype that have a bit of a bad name, but I think that modern understandings focus on empathy as a key characteristic of the witch. I think the traits of the witch are similar to those you can associate with women; as all-knowing, emotionally intelligent and conscientious people, because women are socially conditioned to think about everybody around them. I therefore think that the figure of the witch is closely related to that of the woman.
How does autumn make you feel?
Autumn to me is a time of change, beautiful colours and ritual. We’re all encouraged to spend more time indoors and everyday rituals such as cooking, or in my case, knitting become more precious. I especially love the Halloween period in Edinburgh, because its architecture is very Gothic and the fog (called the haar) rolls in from the sea and it comes and sits on the city. I love the crime novel atmosphere it creates.
Why this outfit?
I chose to use wool to make this dress, because it is a very old material and I think that autumn is a time where we can reflect and reconsider certain traditions. I’m very interested in Celtic mythology, and the Celtic symbols which are often associated with paganism and witchcraft, such as the swirling shapes of the triskele. These are incorporated into my wool designs, as well as natural motifs. For example, you could compare my knitting to the underbelly of a mushroom, or tree bark - I frequently think about those patterns in my designs.
These garments feel very homemade, too. I feel like a tinkerbell character when I wear them.
I wore a knitted dress for my friend’s 21st birthday party held in a forest in Edinburgh, where everyone dressed up as mythical creatures. I went as a Sheela na gig-nymph.
MEG
What does “witch” mean to you?
I find myself half-joking when I speak aloud my desire to be “witchy-y”. The identity is clouded in historical fetishisation, but still now I see people’s lips pull up to a smirk when I mention the dreaded word! Why is she so feared? I don’t know! I suppose, for me, a witch is someone who is deeply empathetic, in tune with the beauty of the world and open to its imperfections. Above all, a witch lives attuned to the natural world and works towards its protection and nourishment.
How does autumn make you feel?
I think autumn is my favourite season to witness here at home on the Welsh Marches. I love its crispness and colour. It makes me feel alive and insignificant amongst the changing of the leaves.
Why this outfit?
The dress is made of a slinky, silky material which feels so soft against my skin. I love most of all the clothes that feel like you’re wearing nothing at all, it makes me less aware of my body and I get great comfort from that (but sometimes I love the opposite!). Probably the best accessory here is Boris, my cat (my witch’s companion). He is massive and gentle and so expressive. His giant paws sound like people-feet when he plods down the stairs.
EMMA
What does “witch” mean to you?
The first thing that springs to mind when I think of the word, ‘witch’, is the colour purple. When I think of witches, I think of a group of women scheming - but not necessarily about spells, just general plotting! I also think of a woman wearing rings with long hair flowing in the wind.
How does autumn make you feel?
Autumn is my favourite season. I think it is because I am a very pale skinned ginger woman and when the weather changes, I can start to layer up and I love that - autumn is the perfect season for layering! I love those cold, crisp, sunny mornings, and wrapping up in a big coat and a scarf to meet a friend for coffee and a natter while you both cuddle into your scarves.
Why this outfit?
I live in Liverpool, but happened to be in Leeds when I took these photos. These are the only clothes I took with me, but I probably would have chosen them anyway because firstly, the jumper is purple! Also, I like the layering of the different textures of the leathery jacket and the scarf, and the contrasting patterns. I think the boots are quite witchy too, because I’ve had them for 3 years - they’re my trusty boots. I wear them all the time: to go out, to dress up, and wear day to day for work. They’re also maroon which gives a kind of pirate look!
Also I thought it was quite fun to accessorise with that little yellow boot, because witches love boots! When I'm wearing this little keyring it makes me feel quite sassy and powerful, which are attributes I definitely associate with witches.
HELEN
What does “witch” mean to you?
A witch is to me, someone who is in touch with the spirit world, able to tempt fate and connect with the earth and elements. My aunt recently read my tarot cards, and when she was reading them, she had a magical aura about her - I felt enchanted and touched by other-worldly energies!
How does autumn make you feel?
Autumn feels sombre after the highs and lows of the hectic summer buzz. It is a time where I start to appreciate rest and take a much needed recuperation of energy. This season provides a slow sinking pause into myself, to rekindle connections with loved ones and reflect on memories made.
Why this outfit?
My mood in the clothes grew fiercer the longer I wore them... I liked the variety of textures on my skin, and the layering of different fabrics which made my body feel warm at the core. I chose the outfit not as a whole but piece by piece figuring out what felt comfortable and gave me confidence. The black suited my melancholic frame of my mind going into the evening, but gradually this turned to a more grateful and grounded mood, channelled through the clothes and through exchanges with friends.
NIM
What does “witch” mean to you?
A witch is someone who knows and understands the layers of human nature, and who venerates the natural workings of the world. Keeping all of your senses, mind and heart open to good and bad stimuli in order to process and learn about the world's complexities.
How does autumn make you feel?
This time of year makes me feel regenerative. It is full of colours that symbolise warmth and earth like orange, red, brown and they instill a feeling of belonging and grounding within me. The sacred glue of mycelium is flowing and people are more open and connected. It is my favourite time of year!
Why this outfit (top right)?
The skirt is from a charity shop and shows all of the autumnal colours that I love. It is also quite a thick and heavy fabric which is practical for gusts of November wind. My jumper was hand knitted by my neighbour and one of the arms is a completely different shape to the other. The neck scarf is my mums. Anything that is my mums holds far more significance to me and makes me feel connected to my family as well as the passing of time.
